les presses du réel

Spike n° 55 – Fashion

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Community Business: The Gentrification of Loss
Is gallery just a business? Or are galleries also in the business of making community? By Alison Gingeras

Talk: "Knowing the Now" with Emily Segal and Alessandro Bava
The contemporary has ousted the timeless in art today. Fashion, by contrast, has always operated in a different, tighter bond with the timely, anticipating the next season, channeling the zeitgeist.

Interview Sylvie Fleury
Making an artwork out of a Louis Vuitton bag seems obvious today, but Sylvie Fleury has been doing collaborations with luxury fashion brands since before they were cool. She uses muscle cars, eyeshadow and runways as material, reminding us of the absurd nature of fashion, and perhaps, of art itself. By Dean Kissick

Essay: Fashion as peer pressure
How fashion makes us consent to the absurdity of consensus reality; or, why being wrong together is more interesting than being right alone. By Rob Horning

Portrait Lukas Duwenhögger
Lukas Duwenhögger makes paintings that play with the tangled connections between the visible and invisible, desire and distance, transparency and opacity – all at the same time. By Dominikus Müller

Essay: The origins of the fashion show
The runway show is still the centrepiece of the fashion world. But it is also, just as when it began in the 19th century, a symptom of its time and a response to the acceleration of life, only the speeds are not the same. By Matthew Linde

Q/A Jack Self
Why is there no criticism in fashion?

Portrait Bernadette Corporation
In spite of making a vast amount of work ranging from sleek art installations in gallery spaces and collectively authored books to fashion and photography, the New York collective Bernadette Corporation has managed to stay just out of focus. By Ella Plevin

Media
Micro-Influencing by Natasha Stagg

Exhibition Histories
"Fast Forward – Fashion in the Media of 90s" (1999). A conversation between curator Christian Muhr and artist Wally Salner

One Work
A pioneer in uniting the avant garde of art with fashion, Elsa Schiaparelli created The Tears Dress with Salvador Dalí in 1938. The celebrated dress offered a violent, inventive glamour that foretold the horrors to come. By Ella Plevin

Shopping
Colette and the end of the concept store. By Dominikus Müller

Q/A Youths in Balaclava
What is the meaning of style?

Artist's Favourites
by Jakob Lena Knebl

Curator's Key
Kaat Debo, director of the Antwerp Fashion Museum MoMu on Dan Flavin's Untitled (to the real Dan Hill) (1978)

Q/A Andra Dumitrascu
What is the new luxury in fashion?

The End is Night
New York Fashion Week. By Natasha Stagg

Focus
"Margiela/Galliera, 1989-2009" at Palais Galliera in Paris by Marina Faust

Images contributed
By Yves Saint Laurent, pelican avenue, Torbjørn Rødland, Johannes Schweiger, Puppies Puppies

Postcard
from Sydney by Rare Candy

Seduction
by Krist Gruijthuijsen, Hanna Putz, Juan Pablo Larraín, Nhu Duong, Romina Farkas

Views L.A.
Charlemagne Palestine at 365 Mission and Nina Könnemann at House of Gaga by Keith J. Varadi, Hannah Hoffman Gallery by Andrew Berardini, Hayden Dunham by Arshy Azizi

Views New York
Jean-Luc Godard at Miguel Abreu Gallery by Felix Bernstein, LaToya Ruby Frazier at Gavin Brown's enterprise by Alison Gingeras, Juan Antonio Olivares at Whitney Museum by Dean Kissick

Views London
"Counter Investigations: Forensic Architecture" at ICA and Laurie Simmons at Amanda Wilkinson Gallery by Billie Muraben, Sondra Perry at Serpentine Sackler Gallery by Lorena Muñoz-Alonso

Views Zurich
Charles Atlas at Migros Museum and Ramaya Tegegne at Galerie Maria Bernheim by Julia Moritz and a preview on "Fashion Drive" at Kunsthaus Zürich by Rita Vitorelli

Views Frankfurt
Jean-Michel Basquiat at Schirn, Rubens at Städel Museum and "I am here to learn" at Frankfurter Kunstverein by Klaus Speidel

Views Berlin
Arthur Jafa at Julia Stoschek Collection and "Left Performance Histories" at NGBK by Alexander Scrimgeour, Ellen Cantor at Galerie Isabella Bortolozzi by Barbara Piwowarska, Guy Bourdin at Museum für Fotografie by Robert Schulte

Views Vienna
Rachel Whiteread at Belvedere 21 by Kimberly Bradley, Bruno Gironcoli at mumok and Galerie Krinzinger by Maximilian Geymüller, Lindsay Lawson at Lisa Kandlhofer and Ydessa Hendeles at Kunsthalle Wien by Gianna Prein


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